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Post by illeagle10 on Dec 17, 2012 21:15:28 GMT -5
OK, while we're at it, here's the beginning of the 95 Reynard. It'll probably go much like the 93 Penske, just a little slower since I'm trying to get #2-93 done for the museum. Here is Bill's 95 Reynard body. When Bill originally cast this kit, I believe he used an AMT Penske kit as a base for parts, such as the undertray, transmission and suspension. Many of the parts were reshaped and cast along with other resin parts that came with this kit. Bill did recast this kit at a later time with the interior molded into the car. I had started this kit years ago and then Revell released their own Reynard, albeit a much later edition of the car. I began looking at the Revell kit and Bill's Reynard. I thought that the Revell parts would go great to go with Bill's kit. I put the kit aside until I could get to it. So, I guess now is a good time as any to get restarted on it. Now I'm going to start over and use a Revell Reynard as a loner kit.  Here's the undertray that I used from the Revell kit. You can see the modification. I'll have to fill in the front area, where I cut the humps out, with some Evergreen plastic stock.  This is the fit with the body and the undertray.  Jim |
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Post by illeagle10 on Jan 9, 2013 18:16:11 GMT -5
I got to do a little more work on the Reynard. As stated before this is probably the first casting of this kit and was made for the AMT Penske as a donor car. There were some white metal pieces that came with the kit and since I am not using them I needed to fill in the locating holes. I will drill new holes for the Revell Reynard suspension at a later time. I needed to do some work around the sidepods at the air exits and the shark fin. The Players Reynard had a thicker core to the shark fin. So, I got out the Milliput and went to work.  I filled in the sidepod areas of the under tray using more Milliput and then using some Squadron green putty for some minor divots. I will be working on the body work at the exit ramps next.  As you can see it makes a really nice fit. Now you can see why I was so excited about using the Revell Reynard as a donor car for Bill's Reynard!  And with the rear suspension in place.  Jim |
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Post by MikeB on Jan 9, 2013 20:44:43 GMT -5
What color are you going to use for the Player's car?
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Post by illeagle10 on Jan 9, 2013 21:34:53 GMT -5
What color are you going to use for the Player's car? I haven't given it much thought at this point. It will depend on what I prime the car with Tamiya or Testors. If I prime it with Tamiya white primer then I will probably use TS-23 light blue. I do like using my airbrush, I'm not a rattle can fan. However, I have used Tamiya spray paints many times and have had good success. I like to use Testors header flat white as a primer. That's why I like my airbrush. I can use a large tip and spray a thick coating on for primer to cover up small blemishes. Then when it comes to the primary colors I can thin the paint down to my choosing that it goes on smooth. If I'm using Testors, I will probably go with Light Bright Blue, but I need to spray some and let it dry to see how it matches up before I use it. Jim |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 22:31:19 GMT -5
MCW has Player's blue that is dead on.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2013 7:46:04 GMT -5
Hey Jim, you wouldn't consider tracing the shape of that Reynard under tray and sending me a scan would you? This is great as I have the donor kit and Bill's Reynard body. Thanks
John
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Post by illeagle10 on Jan 10, 2013 12:26:45 GMT -5
MCW has Player's blue that is dead on. Thanks for the tip Chris. As I said it'll come down to what type medium of paint I want to use, lacquer or enamel. I am not that familiar with MCW either. So, I would have to give some time away to see how it spays, lays and polishes. I have always gotten by with Tamiya or Testors. MCW is quite expensive too! Still all bets are on the table. I just have to remember that enamel can go on lacquer, but lacquer cannot go on enamel. Bottom line is I like to use the same companies primer with their paint. Jim |
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Post by illeagle10 on Jan 10, 2013 12:33:35 GMT -5
Hey Jim, you wouldn't consider tracing the shape of that Reynard under tray and sending me a scan would you? This is great as I have the donor kit and Bill's Reynard body. Thanks John John before I do that can you check and tell me which molding of Bill's kit that you have. The later resin body with the seat molded into it is a different fit than the first casting without the seat. I was just in the "dungeon" as my wife calls it, comparing the two bodies. You will need to do a little adjusting and I can help you with that. I will have to do in when I get to Lazier's car. Jim |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2013 13:21:43 GMT -5
Jim, I have the casting without the seat. I have the under tray for it and it looks like it will work, but the Reynard under tray would be easier in light of the fact the tranny will fit better. I do have to wonder what seat I'll have to use though. Thanks.
John
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Post by illeagle10 on Jan 10, 2013 14:05:11 GMT -5
Jim, I have the casting without the seat. I have the under tray for it and it looks like it will work, but the Reynard under tray would be easier in light of the fact the tranny will fit better. I do have to wonder what seat I'll have to use though. Thanks. John PM has been sent. I find that the best tub and seat for these cars is from the AMT kits. The seat from an AMT Lola and the tub from the AMT Penske. I believe that is what Bill used originally. The tub from the AMT kits needs to be modified by grinding down all areas of the outer tub. I can give you more info. if needed. There are many parts l like to use from both AMT kits. So, I try to keep plenty in stock whether they be kits or glue bombs. Same with the Revell kits. The price of these kits are skyrocketing! When I can get them cheap, I do! Now I'm giving away my secrets!  Jim |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2013 22:11:58 GMT -5
You're not giving away secrets, you're sharing the wealth. Thanks
John
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Post by illeagle10 on Jan 26, 2013 17:05:57 GMT -5
Well here goes posting on the new format! I haven't found any place where you can preview your post, before you post it. I also hope that posting pictures is the same. Here we go! I like to add valve stems to my wheels. I usually do this with brass rod instead of plastic rod. Plastic rod is very easy to break off, brass rod is a little sturdier. I use a #76 drill and the corresponding .020 brass rod. I've used the BBS wheels from the Revell Gurney Reynard kit that way I didn't have to strip any chrome off them.  I next used some Evergreen plastic to create an aerodynamic lip in front of the cockpit instead of wasting the windscreen, which are so hard to come by. I also pinned all the front suspension pieces, which enabled me to locate and drill all the locating holes.  Finally, I again used Evergreen sheet plastic to make the air foils that go over the sidepods. I've gone through approximately three different designs, trying to get close to the proper shape. Every photo I look at they seem to be a little different on each picture. I will install these once I paint the body. I also installed the roll hoop. Still have some work to do on that.  Jim |
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Post by illeagle10 on Jan 26, 2013 17:07:23 GMT -5
Hey it worked!
Jim
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Post by Art Laski on Jan 28, 2013 12:11:35 GMT -5
Nice work, Jim. The WIP is great.
-Art
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Post by shunter on Jan 31, 2013 3:56:52 GMT -5
Nice work, Jim. The WIP is great. -Art I have to agree 100% with Art. |
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